The vanishing Resthouses

Week 12 - 21st March '99

Jelebu - The vanishing Resthouse

We are now into the 12^th week of the New Year and we have not started on our mission to spend time on the topic of Rest houses. It was imperative that a greater push be given to this subject otherwise the procrastination will take the upper hand. The most approachable town and given high media coverage is the traditional Jelebu town now known as Kuala Kelawang. We had in mind the Negri Sembilan Year. The mission this day was to find the Rest House.

Jelebu is a fascinating name but situated in the heart of similar vicinity there is another name on our mind and that is the Titi-kon, a Chinese settlement . As the day progressed or rather as we reached the state of Negeri after crossing over the border, to our surprise we find the countryside that was very pleasant and beautiful with rolling hills. Of course I with what this place is fame fo - pineapple. Up to this days we do not know the species of pineapple that pulls so much attentions. Two destinationsKelebu and Titi-kon as we followed through turn out to be a new learning experience for us

The fruit are planted are planted in the outback region of Kampong Chennah. The scrub is larger than the usual plants that we are accustomed to see.

There were many plots of such cultivation’s and they dotted the low hills west of Jelebu. If you are ever in the area, remember this queer name "Titi" sometimes means bridge. This is a new village that distributes the largest and sweetest pineapple in the country and about 8 kilometers from the town center.

1 Pineapple - Titi-Kon is famous for

The rolling hills at the back of town

The road out of town meanders alongside the flat riverbed. A short distance out of town the uniqueness of the region unveils. What attracted us most was the architecture used They have very traditional looking houses. The design of each house may vary marginally but they all have one feature in common.

2 Valley behind Jjelebu

3 Duck pond beside the main road

4 The new road sign stood proud of its new name

5 Town Council Building - showing its Menangkabau architecture

6 We were looking for the old Resthouse

7 The Town Square

Upon arrival in town, the few blocks of old shop houses looked fresh like a revived township. Then the brief encounter I had with the couple of residents operating the shops confirmed that they were new arrivals. The first persons I met were a couple of Chinese youngsters selling newspapers. They were in town for just a week. It was unlikely that they had knowledge of the information that I am seeking. Where is the Rest House?

To my surprise their level of knowledge were not isolated. A paternal looking owner of the leading restaurant owner was my next target; he gave a similar impression. Then there were others too. Among them, some faintly remembered that was a Resthouse at a corner of town. Though they could not fix the location, the direction of its whereabouts was surprisingly accurate.

In desperation, I finally approached a middle age petty trader on the way to the Resthouse. He shocked me by elaborating on the changes that is happening and then directed me to the spot where the rest house should have been. That was more than I asked for.

Out of town toward a recreational park - Serting, I drove. It was a good awakening that we were not the only ones who felt that the concept of Rest Houses has outlived its usefulness.

This "Pasar Mingguan" or weekend open market must be a special occasion.

On that day, the number of vendors outstrips the shoppers.

Summing up the fidings of our trip to jelebu

The town is on the eastern slope of the Main range. Whichever route chosen, includes driving pass mountainous road back to the populated West.

Jelebu is situated in a rustic but narrow riverside basin. At its narrowest spot, the low hills on both sides come so close to another that the narrow corridor has space for the river to pass through. This is a strategic site for the settlement to exercise control on the traffic using this passage.

This town had already flattened the Resthouse. Piling had commenced on the adjacent land for the building of a new Holiday Inn. It is unbelievable that a small community in Kuala Kelawang would have adequate flow of visitors to support perhaps a 3 star hotel

We leaned that ;-.

Houses - All of them are painted dark maroon. The door and window frames adopt the maroon color harmonizing with the overall house on the outside.

Once opened outwards reveal that the inner side is painted light beige with light blue to highlight the frame.

The collaborative efforts of the residents gives an impression that this practice is meant to be a quick signal to ascertain whether the occupants are in or have gone away. The color selected for the curtains is a matching light blue. Such consistency projected a sight that is overwhelming for visitors coming from outside the district.

Back in town, the architecture of the Town House reflects that of the typical Menangkabau style.

Its presence promotes an air of traditions unique to the Negri Sembilan community.

Just besides the open market, the Spartan looking bus terminal stood unchanged. Our group had the unfortunate incident one evening when we were the last passengers for the night.