Week 19 - 9th  May '99

Exploring Coastal Perak: A Journey Through Memory and Change

 

Perak, despite being Selangor’s immediate neighbor, often felt distant to us. We rarely ventured across its border, focusing instead on exploring the far reaches of our own state. Perhaps it was an invisible boundary in our minds that kept us confined. On this trip, however, we decided to break free from that mindset and cross into Perak. Entering through Sabak Bernam, we set our sights on Teluk Intan, the first milestone of our journey.

Driving through coastal Perak was an absolute delight. The roads were quiet, the air fresh, and the scenery alternated between mangroves and sprawling oil palm plantations. After another 60 kilometers, we arrived at Lumut, a small town nestled in the heart of coastal Perak.

Our first destination was Teluk Batik, a beachside bay I hadn’t visited in nearly 30 years. As expected, the area had undergone a complete transformation. The old familiar sights were gone, replaced by modern developments, yet the place still managed to evoke a strong sense of nostalgia. I noticed new accommodations for trainees now perched on the slopes of nearby hills instead of the plains where they once stood. It was a bittersweet feeling—everything was different, but the name “Teluk Batik” still brought back vivid memories.

I spent some time capturing the updated surroundings with my camera. Though much had changed, I felt compelled to document what I could. From Teluk Batik, we made a quick stop at Lumut town center, though we didn’t venture to its famous waterfront or the nearby naval base.

With limited time, we had other destinations on our agenda—Pasir Salak and Pantai Remis. These places required further exploration, and we set off without lingering too long in Lumut.

The drive through the countryside was monotonous, with little variation in scenery to hold our interest. Perhaps the nostalgia from Teluk Batik overshadowed everything else. As a result, we took very few photos during the rest of our trip. Looking back, I regret not recording more scenes and observations from these places.

Lumut at the estuary is known or made busy by the Naval Base. it is also the departure point for Pangkor.

With the upgrading in status and role of the Naval Base, a new township with large hotels and commercial center is taking shape. Nevertheless, with constraints in land, the old Lumut town of 2 streets making up a square remains intact.

 

1 Scene at Lumut

2 Here is a series of Pictures onTeluk Batik Bay 

One view of the beach, this day was a lean season withlittle activities on the beach

3 From a high point looking northwards

4 Then Looking south

5 Catchy patch of side rock

6 The bay together with its end -The cape

7 Looking westward towards Pangkor

Another angle, we could almost see the profile of the entire Pangkor Island across the Channel.

8 The public beach

This shoreline along this stretch of the Peninsula has a sandy floor and so beautiful beaches. Lumut is blessed with the long Teluk Batik beach.

9 Pangkor Island

From the school administrative building, we could get a commanding view of the Dindings Channel

10 Outward Bound School

Another nostalgic fact of Lumut is the Outward Bound School. Set up in the early 50s was a premier training center for youth and leadership development. The early premises was on apiece of land in Teluk Muroh. This area has since been cordoned off for the Naval yard and the new site was made permanent.

The quarters or "watch" for the trainees now perch on the hill slopes of the compound. I can see that it is not an easy task to get "home" each day after a grueling programme.

11 Quaint Chinese settlement - Pantai Remis Town  

The little known Prawn Fishing town of Pantai Remis

The coastal region after Teluk Intan and going north to Penang has always seem so remote and little known. In our daily business in Kuala Lumpur, we bumped into friends coming g from exotic places like Pantai Remis. What is this place like apart from hearsay that it sends out huge quantity of prawns.

Surprise again, it is a modern "Cowboy" town. One straight and long main street with modern shop houses on both sides. Restaurants, coffee shops and hawkers center with proper bus terminals tell us that we missed seeing the original settlement.

With a stroke of luck, traditions never dies. The young maiden at the Petrol Station directed us behind the houses at the far end of town. 

Hey Presto! The old Pantai Remis! Not only did we find the old town, we also found the best food stalls [Depends on how you define -"best"]

 

12 That rustic looks

This is the end of town where the old would end up meeting the new town.

Good pictures for memory of that wonderful lunch of Fish Paste [authentic hokkien "who pow" and best prepared Teochew porridge] 

 

13 Small bussinesses

Many would have gone for the air-conditioned restaurants and bringing out the best food this small town can provide.  e opt for the ambience and the best food this place can provide for its residents.

People who dwell in these narrow streets and living in the wooden houses.

The aroma sent Joyce into the kitchen to check out the very aromatic dish that was being prepared- curry stingray, Hainan style.

Pasir Salak - A Historical Site

All along the trunk road Federal Route 1 or major road in Perak state, there is this huge signage to guide travelers to Pasir Salak. Being ignorant of local history, we took the cue to check out scene that we should not miss in our wandering days. 

To do that its meant that we have to drive south again towards the direction of my favorite fishing haunts, Kampong Gajah. The stretch of road along the Perak River from Teluk Intan to Parit is a historical route

J.W.W.Birch was a historical figure being the first Resident in British Malaya. Though experienced in governmental matter after serving in Ceylon, James Birch was an unsuitable candidate, aloof, arrogant and short tempered. 

He tried to bully the local chiefs. Birch was attacked and killed by the men of Datuk Maharaja Lela while he was washing himself on a raft. James W.W. Birch murdered here 2nd November 1875

After the plot, the main figures were executed while others including Ngah Ibrahim and Laksamana Muhammad Amin were exiled to the Seychelles.

Reflections on a Missed Opportunity

In hindsight, those few photos we did manage to take are now priceless—they capture the essence of the environment at that moment in time. However, our journey that day was plagued by confusion and a lack of focus. We deviated from our usual style of exploration, where we would immerse ourselves in a place and capture its spirit in detail.

Now, as I write this account, I can’t help but feel a sense of loss. The effort we put into reaching these destinations feels wasted because we didn’t make the most of the opportunities before us. The handful of images we captured are a mere glimpse of what could have been a richer, more vivid record of the journey.

Still, what’s done is done. This trip, despite its flaws, serves as a reminder to approach future travels with renewed attention and care—to fully embrace the experience and capture the memories that will one day hold immeasurable value.

 

                        Khong's Travel Guide