Week 20 - 16th May '99

 

A Surprise Visit to Kuala Gula1

In my early outings, I often encountered birds and butterflies, but it wasn't until late 1998 that my interest in birdwatching took a serious turn. A few months into this newfound passion, I learned about the critically endangered Milky Stork, a species found in Kuala Gula. Driven by curiosity and a desire to see this rare bird, I planned a trip to the area—though I must admit, my knowledge of birdwatching was rudimentary at best.

At the time, Kuala Gula was an unfamiliar name to me, yet it has since become one of Malaysia’s premier birding destinations. My initial visit, however, wasn’t about expertise or ticking species off a checklist. It was the wide-eyed exploration of a casual traveler, eager to uncover what made this seemingly remote place so special. With an open mind, my companions and I set out to experience the essence of this estuarine village—fueled more by curiosity than any grand expectations.

Though the village remains a confined and quiet society, its allure is undeniable. I know I will return, eager for more glimpses into its unique way of life, its birdlife, and perhaps even more stories waiting to be uncovered.

Moving up north about 50 kilometer from Taiping is the estuary village of Kuala Gula.

Geographically, this site is 32 kilometers north of Port Weld, 11 kms south of Kuala Kurau and through the only direct link by road, Simpang Empat, is 30 kilometers from Parit Buntar.The park started ringing birds in 1973 and had recorded 112 species from 34 families.

The main activities of the sanctuary was centered around the island of Pulau Kelumpang. The island is bordered by the Sungei Selinsing in the south, Sungei Kelumpang on the east and the Straits of Malacca on the west

 1  Sketch map for Kuala Gula

2 Looking out the narrow estuary at Kuala Gula  

For an impression of the width of the estuary at Kuala Gula, watch the open area between the banks behind Khoo.

3 Remote part of Kuala Gula  

This site at the northern edge of the Matang Forest Reserve, was a mixture of mudflats and Mangrove forest. Here I followed the river upstream for a picture

The type of mangrove found in these diversified intertidal plains were:-

Avicennia lanata - Api api bulu       Rhizophora mucrunata - Bakau kurap
Avicennia manua - Api api jambu       Rhizophora apiculata - Bakau minyak
Avicennia officinalis - Api api ludat       Bruguiera hatinesii - Berus
Avicennia alba - Api api puteh       Bruguiera parviflora - lenggadai
          Exoecuria agallocha - bebuta

The more impressive and easy to see type of birds found here are:-

Black Crowned Night Heron - Nycticorax nycticorax
Lesser Adjunctant Stork - Leptoptilos javanicus
Milky Stork - Myctaria cinererea
4 Rare glimpse of the Milky Stork

- remnant flock of Birds for Malaysia and the World - all found here

4 More Milky Stork pictures

Kuala Gula is a tidal plain with little or no dry land. Depending on differences in habitats, food preferences and soil type, the mammals that could be seen are:-

 
Smooth Otter   - Lutrogale perspicillata
Long Tail Macaque   - Macaque fascicularis
Dusky Leaf Monkey   - Presbytis abcura

Kuala Gula cottage Industry

5  Prawns diried in open air the sun

Huge industry here where tiny shrimps caught dyed and left to ake in the sun. Exported to Thailand for making Prawns fritters

6 Drying Prawn Cake - Belachan  

Very unique , Shrimp pulverised and converted into cakes then dried in the sun. The different colours - different stages of dryness as it take days for the process

7 inland fish farm

Shallow inland ponds for the cultivation of Sea food - most likely Prawns. Looks like abandoned or not  in use yet

8 inside the factory

Started with  the whole Shrimps - compressed and turned into paste

9 Fermentation area

The paste ferment, got itself dehydrated over times-

10 Belachan making

Our parting look - we were gifted with a generous quantity of finished products specially prepared for own consumption i.e. without salt added

Kuala Gula, one of the many estuaries we planned to explore, stood in stark contrast to Kuala Sepetang, which we had visited earlier. While Sepetang thrived with activity, Kuala Gula felt like a tranquil, forgotten corner of the world. There were no bustling eateries or social hubs here—only the quiet rhythm of a simple life. Yet, what we discovered made the trip unforgettable. From belacan-making workshops to massive shrimp harvests destined for Thailand’s famous dried shrimp delicacies, every sight felt like an unexpected gift.

This visit not only enriched my appreciation of the region’s traditional industries but also inspired me to document these vanishing trades. My collection now includes pages on charcoal production and dried shrimp harvesting—treasures I wouldn’t have gathered without this trip. Kuala Gula’s charm lies not just in its wildlife but in its authenticity, and I feel fortunate to have captured a slice of its story.

 
     
                        Khong's Travel Guide