In the late 1990s, Malaysia experienced a surge in affluence, and with it came a wave of new hobbies and pastimes. Among these, 4x4 off-road adventures captured the imagination of vehicle enthusiasts. Groups formed, sharing their passion for rugged outdoor exploration, creating a vibrant subculture centered around these powerful machines. I found myself drawn to this trend but with a twist—I wanted something unconventional, lightweight, and disposable. That’s when the idea of repurposing the iconic VW Beetle for off-road escapades took shape.

My inspiration stemmed from my past experiences in the 1980s, when I navigated remote terrains in a trusty Beetle while pursuing my passion for fishing. The car’s simplicity and rugged charm made it an ideal companion for venturing into inaccessible areas. However, I was fully aware of its limitations. Over time, I shifted my focus from off-road adventures to exploring lesser-known destinations accessible via Malaysia’s developing road networks. My aim was to compile a unique collection of stories and names, charting my journey across the country.

This page highlights two of my most memorable endeavors: expeditions to Malaysia’s National Parks. These adventures tested my skills and knowledge to the limit. Each challenge was a learning experience, pushing me to adapt and persevere. Beyond the parks, my wanderlust led me to obscure locations, places that demanded time and companionship to uncover. I was fortunate to have the unwavering support of my friends Ioyce and Khoo, who accompanied me on many of these escapades. My daughter Jackie also played a pivotal role, joining me on some of the more demanding segments of my journey.

Now, 25 years later, I look back with immense pride at the achievements and memories I’ve amassed. Through dedication and effort, I’ve curated a treasure trove of photographs that serve as a vivid reminder of my wandering days. These images are more than mere pictures; they are trophies of a life well-lived, moments captured to revisit during my twilight years.

The two National Parks of Malaysia, namely the official Taman Negara at Kuala Tahan and the Endau Rompin National Park, were established to cater to adventurous visitors. Both offer environments and settings that command premium prices for a visit. Initially, access was not easy, requiring a sizable package price, and tours were meticulously organized, leaving little room for spontaneous drop-ins or casual observers.

This formal barrier contradicted my desire for a more spontaneous style of exploration. I preferred the freedom to drop by whenever I pleased, adding another destination to my list of places visited. Despite the complexity of visiting a national park, I persevered, diligently researching until I found a little-known land route that allowed me to visit both parks on my own terms, as a casual visitor.

The journey begins at Kuala Tembiling, where visitors embark on a three-hour boat ride to reach Kuala Tahan. Upon arrival, guests typically check in at the three-star Mandarin Hotel & Resort. During my quest to explore caves, I found myself in Kota Gelanngi, where I noticed a road sign. Interestingly, the forest on the eastern bank of Kuala Tahan was gradually being converted into a Palm Oil Estate. Navigating through interconnected tracks could lead one upstream to the Orang Asli Villages opposite Taman Negara. A continuously connecting track running parallel to the Tahan River bank had been established due to increasing needs, spanning a lengthy 65 kilometers. While most of the track was on level ground, some sections involved navigating slopes, rendering it accessible only to vehicles equipped with 4 Wheel Drive capabilities. Despite the rough and bumpy ride lasting over an hour, I decided to take the risk with my Beetle. I vividly recall one particularly rattling drive where the vibrations shook out my entire exhaust system. Nevertheless, I felt a sense of pride upon successfully completing the journey and parking my car among a fleet of Jeeps. This experience motivated me to undertake many more expeditions after the initial trip.

The park itself is meticulously maintained, albeit experiencing a rise in foot traffic. The land route to Kuala Tahan has now been paved as Federal Road 1508, making it accessible to all vehicles year-round. On the opposite bank of the river, a small township named Kuala Tahan has emerged, boasting numerous chalets, mid-sized hotels, schools, health clinics, and even a spacious area designated for bus parking.

Traveling to Endau Rompin was an equally challenging endeavor, as it involved traversing a network of palm oil estates with no distinct landmarks to guide the way. In the absence of GPS technology in Malaysia at that time, I relied on a sketch map with limited details of notable landmarks to navigate the route. A significant aspect of the journey was the river crossings, facilitated by makeshift timber bridges constructed by logging companies along the jungle road.

Unlike Kuala Tahan, where the administrative office of the park was located, Endau Rompin's headquarters were operated by the Forestry Department. Within the park compound, there were only chalets available, lacking boarding facilities. Most visitors, often led by tour guides, were self-sufficient, embarking on hikes to destinations like Upeh Guling, approximately 8 kilometers away. The last amenities were found in Kuala Jasin, serving as the trailhead for tours to Buaya Sangkut, where visitors would camp in the open air. The only semblance of civilization was the Kg Peta Orange Asil settlement.

Reflecting on these expeditions, I found great joy in being among the pioneers who explored these remote areas. Remarkably, revisiting the region some 30 years later revealed little change; notably, transportation still relied on contracted 4WD vehicles during the non-monsoon seasons, typically from April to October each year.