Chiang Rai

Exploring the Hinterlands of Mae Sai

Mae Sai (แม่สาย) is the northernmost city of Thailand.
I find the recommendations made out on the internet for the city rather weak. Actually Mae Sae is an exciting place with lots of activities. Well, perhaps those web pages available in the internet designed to leaving room for tour agents to work on.
First, Mae Sae is the largest border town within this region where there are three different countries. Almost sharing common borders. I even assume that it is largest urban area in the whole region. So naturally it acts as the activities hub.

 For the tourist, the immediate border crossing into Burmese Tachikek would already brings out a noticeable different world. Goods across this "less developed" Tachilek is also cheaper than that in Mae Sae. That goes the reason for the locals Thais coming to the border too.

 Second - the Thai Tourism Board has lined up a good deal of attractions to entice, e.g. a long list of places to cover within the Golden Triangle and the surrounding hills close by to Mae Sai.

 Thirdly - Then trips to interpretive villages to sample the charms of the Kayan Tribes famed for their culture of keeping "Long neck".

Fourth - Goods from rural Burma, Mae Sae is the bigger of the two centres to barter or retail semi previous gems and jade stones.

 Lastly Fifth, there is another cultural and holiday destination - Doi Mae Salong

Within the time frame of our short visits and all other previous exploratory trips, the key objective for us was seeing the Mekong River and staying in Mae Sai. That's was so satisfying. Mae Sae even though its small town, I did picked up new surprises. As for the side trips,  I could only do cursory touristy trips. I still have to mark that I had "seen". So lucky I could assembled the required pictures and compiled a brief reports on some of them.

#1. Kayan Tribes   The "Long Neck" People

The Mayans is a sub-group of the Red Karen, an ethnic minority of the Myanmar's indigenous people. The Kayan they themselves are again subdivided  into 3 splitter groupings. One of which the "Long neck" people. This group are known as the Kayan Lahwi. Another name given to them, the Padaung people. Padaung is a Shah term for those Kayan Lahwi people. The Kayan do not like this term and preferred to be known as Kayan

Most Kayan are found in the Burmese Shan State (40K,) and also the Kayan State.(20K)/ In Thailand, there are only a small pocket of them about group (600) and are recruited to enhance the tourist industry
 .In the 80s and 90s, conflict with the Burmese led many to fled to Thailand. Once settled down and engaged in the Tourist trade, they are self sufficient and do not need aids. This estimates of 600 Kayans are made up of those engaged in Tourist business and refugees camps in Mae Hon Sang
Women of the Kayan tribes identifies themselves by the form of dresses they wear while woman of the Kayan Lahwi are well known for wearing brass neck rings. Actually brass coils that are placed around the neck which appears as if the action had lengthened it.
Girls started wearing neck braces from 5 Years onwards In Reality the brass pushes the collar bones down which in turns compresses the rib cage. The neck was never lengthened
It has been suggested that the wearing of the coils helps to project the woman having a resemblance to s dragon. All under the Kayan Lahwi folklore.

I have written so much to have a clear understanding as to where these minority groups are usually found.

Thailand saw the selling point of this cultural practice and brought this culture south. Over the years, slowly improvised, Now  Tourism Board having interpretive settlement Ban Tong Luang, Mae Rim in Chiang Mai Now here in Chiang Rai they opened up a collective village to feature the few minority groups

 1. Union Of Hill Tribes  Complex

A private estate with compartments of space for each tribes. I have got my eyes set on the Karens.

2.  Complex -Karen Tribe - welcoming arch

Looks deserted and it was, very low tourist traffic

3. Tour Groups

Car Park

 4. "Long-necked" Girl at Work

 1. Union Of Hill Tribes  - Collection of Photos

Once again that sales speech - Chiang Rai close to the border, is famous for living styles of hill tribes. Purportedly some had resettled or invited to put up settlement in the Golden Triangle, Mae Sai and Chiang Saen town.

For eco
-attractions  - This destination was fairly new “Union of Hill Tribe Villages and Longneck Karen”. This is privately run exhibition site widely advertised on the internet. As advertised, there would be 5 hill tribes. They have joined with us for an authentic nature holiday. They are indigenous people with a vast knowledge of the area- its plants, weather, birds, and animals

I am not impressed. The set up and ambience looked like a human zoo

#2. King Roman Casino

"Zhao and Kings Romans control The Golden Triangle! "

Laos has its own "Special Economic Zone",  a designated area which is more or less like a Free Trade Zone. It look as if a special entrepreneur has monopolized hat privilege. His name, Zhao Wei, a native from Heilongjiang, now operating the Landun Casino in Macao and King Roman empire in Hong Kong is the big player for development within this scheme.

He started a palm-studded gambling and tourism complex that sprawls an area along the Mekong bank. This place clearly visible when cruising along the Mekong. Located at the point where the borders of Myanmar, Laos and Thailand converge, the "Golden Triangle". The business was set up all because gambling in China is banned and only allowed in Macao. Hence this outlet in Laos caters for  and attracts the Chinese visitors.

Apart from this complex, expansion plans was on the way to set up the $50 million Port Development on the Mekong. Media are very sceptical towards these projects and have reported them negatively,

Funny all these news report, hardly attract attention elsewhere. Same with me, it was only here that I could see or pay attention to. Anyway, I learnt about this development in situ, and could follow the progresses made in the wilderness. Same comment, I got my pictures

1. King Roman Industrial hub

Out of No here, a complex in this very rural Laos country side

2. King Roman Casino

View of the Casino

3. Special Economic Zone

Another one?

4. Special Economic Zone

Shopping complexes?

This is an interesting destination! A very urbanised type or activities in a very poor and rural region. Of course, it has its unique attraction. Having fun and gambling in a "No Man's Land".

I am more into subject of nature. Well, human activity is also part and parcel of nature. But somehow that attraction was not strong enough to entice me to be curious. Even though the place appears exotic and  is very far from everywhere, even though I had to make special effort to come this far! I just passed the complex from the outside, just to collect my pictures. Sorry no details.

#3. Doi Mae Salong

When I first targeted Thailand for my travel, I was fascinated with this destination -  Mae Salong. News that this is the place where Chinese Kuomintang army had chosen to stay behind when the second World War was over. Now with better details on the internet, the peopel involved and the history of this place could be better appreciated.

To trace back the past for this region called Mae Salong, changes that had taken placed can be slotted into 3 eras. The rolling hills here are part of the undulating landscape of the Don Lau Range. In the earliest known era, this remote area  was used by the locals to refine Opium. Was still doing it even up to the year 1971. From that time on, the farmers had gradually shifted to crop cultivation.

The second era - in 1969 the Kuomintang 93rd Division army was driven out of Burma and they came to Thailand. Here  they joined up with the Thai army to fight the communist. By 1982, the menace was over and in view of their contribution, the Kuomintang Army personnel were allowed to settle down among this hills. Very remote and sparsely populated, the only notable settlement then was Shantikhiri - meaning "peaceful village" built on the ridge. The village having same name as the mountain as well. The Kuomintang were given Thai citizenship. Getting more people the Prime Minister's then had a plan i.e. to plant Tea Leaves and Three Leaves Pines.

Only in 1997, a new name Doi Mae Salong was officially given to this settlement. This name borrowed the sound of the Chinese term “Mei Shi Le” (Chinese: 沒事了) which also means "Peaceful Place". Well, twisted little bit to become Mae Salong
Today, the region is famous for its Oolong tea leaves production. Can visit well known established plantation like 101 to check their production method and seeing the Three-needled pines all over the valleys

By now, the village better known for its enchanting scenery and tranquil atmosphere. It is a major tourist destination with a small-town ambience, taste delicious native or Yunan dishes. A good number of small hotels and guesthouses catering to visitors and going out for Tea and coffee. Of course there fruit tree plantations. Good destination for a relaxing holiday.

For those coming for sight seeing, choose the Flower season or Cherry Blossom time. For sight seeing, there are 2 historical monuments but quite simple - nothing to shout about after seeing the more impressive ones in other parts of Thailand.

1. Mae Salong Settlement

Typical scene Village view

2. Tea Plantation

Visitor centre

3. Mae Salong's Flower Hill

The focus point of the area

Local record shows that tourist traffic would be the heaviest during the northern winter months. Guest targeting to enjoy the cool climate of the Highlands. Bur remember, this is a rural setting. Don't expect 3 stars hotel standards nor looking forward in dining in a posh restaurant. For me, I would check the dates when the Flower's Hill would be at its best.

#4. Wild Boar Football Team

On June 23, 2018, a young man  Ekkapol Chantawong, who is also the coach of the junior soccer team, Wild Boars took his favourite team out to the local cave. Members are mostly made up of poor or stateless teenagers. After the regular football game, they were to retreat into the touristy Tham Luang Cave. It was their regular haunt which they had done the outings many times. The plan was for a one hour hike.

That day, drama started. The monsoon rains came and hit the region. Was so bad that part of the cave passages was flooded. The coach and 12 players aged 11-16 years were trapped underground. Since it was a casual hike, they had only with them a rope, flashlight and some batteries. No water or food.

For those not familiar, the Tham Luang Cave passage ways within the system could snakes for 10 kilometres beneathe cloud-covered mountains. This is the iconic "Sleeping Lady"  mountain near the Thailand and Myanmar. Tham Luang by the way is the fourth largest cave in Thailand. They are not strangers to this cave and they had done 8 km hike previously

What follows was an international rescue effort of 200-300 strong of media mad cave experts from all over the world. The victims caught in the dark for 12 days and one rescuer died in the tragedy.

1. Wild Boar Football Team Episode

Silhouette of the "Sleeping Lady Mountain". - Doi Nang Non

 2. Tham Luang Khun-nam Nangnon National Park

This way into the Park

 3. Signage for Tham Luang Nang Non Forest Park

Reach the Cave vicinity

 4. Tham Luang Nang Non Cave entrance

Caving ranked very high on my interest list in 1996-8. At that time, I was not so much into climbing or exploring Cave passages. But more focus on doing light Photography inside the caves and recording its features. The caving hobby needs lots of resources like having good companions, studies made of the caves structures and choosing time of visit etc. It is also a dangerous hobby. What happened? My partner left me, after having finished most caves in Peninsula Malaysia. I lacked that important component and stopped in 1998. I then switched over to doing Birding.

 In my trips to Thailand, I did a couple cursory trips to some very small caves by the Andaman Coast with local guides. But stop short of chasing the important and better known caves in Thailand.

On my earlier trips to Mae Sae, I saw the "Sleeping Woman" Mountain. Even stopped to make pictures as this is one of the landmark of Chiang Rai. Quite natural that I didn't know and missed out the important Tham Luang Cave as it was not among the "must see" places. Then I learnt about the incident on the TV.  Now I went back to the place as a Kay Po and the caves but as a tourist - I knows enough as not to simply enter caves! I have being there!!!

#5. Wat Phra That Doi Wao

The temple is about 100 meters before reaching the Mae Sa/ Tachilek border. The entrance to the temple is on the left side of the main road with stairs leading up to Phra That. Also a circular paved route filled with trees to ascend. Alternatively there is a spacious  car park at the scenic "view point".

Wat Phra That Doi Wao - The temple has a perfect spot for panoramic view. Visitors can see the range of hills from Thailand's side all the way to the Burmese border. This particular hill and the complex is on high ground looking down. I am say "pity" it is not a really the most ideal view. "View point" on the complex was facing west while the more classical Mae Sae and most of Tachilek was looking north, which has an obstructed range of vision

 This place is one of the relics left from ancient Phra Thats days in Chiangrai province. History says that King Wao who ruled Yonok Nakorn built this place in order to store Buddha's hair in 364 B.E. "Wao" in Lanna language which means a scorpion. That explain the installation of the Scorpion Monument

The perfect time to visit is the 15th day, 5th month Thai lunar calendar,

I had enough of temple in Thailand! This trip was special as back home in Malaysia, my Thai language teacher coincidentally from Chiang Rai reminded me to visit the temple to bring back some holy water. Was also with luck that while we were making our way up north and nearing Mae Sae, we could not miss seeing this very nice complex on the hill. Then I read some where that one of the features of this temple ground was a statue of a gigantic Scorpion perched and facing menacingly towards Tachilek. Now I got to see and photographed it.

1. Wat Phra That Doi Wao

Perched on a hill seen from the Main Road

2. Wat Phra That Doi Wao

Reaching temple complex by car

3. Wat Phra That Doi Wao

Temple ground

4. Wat Phra That Doi Wao

The scorpion

5. Wat Phra That Doi Wao

The view point and part of view

Quite happy with this page myself.

On the pages for the destination of Chiang Mai, I had prepared individual report on each and every topics that I found interesting. An understatement! Of course, almost every topic I came across was close to my heart. So much so, in the end, I had picked up too many pictures and there after ended up with just a few pages too many. That pushed the sites contained the many pages, very tedious to go through. That site on Chiang mai, I think lost its focus. So few of my collections - the pages I means slipped into oblivions.

Most or the name of many places and interest covered are aliens to people seeing this page, other than me.

So now all done, for the town of Mae Sae, I followed my usual practice of having one page of "Places of Interest outside Mae Sai". This time, I had most topics all done in brief and into one single page. Of course with much lesser pictures.

 

 

       With  Will  Will  Wander