Tasting "River" Fish in Sauk
As usual, our travelling style, we left Petaling Jaya before the first lights. Two hours later, we decided to stop by in Junction town outside Ipoh. Simpang Pulai - to check on the mobile Roast Duck stall. Sorry, perhaps not his operating day, not there! We had a simple breakfast knowing very well that we had planned for an early lunch in Sauk. We left Ipoh and continued on our way north. In no time at all, with the low morning traffic, we reached the Kuala kangsar Turnpike. These names seen on the board, all of them sounded exciting, as we would be driving along the famed East-West Highway from KK to Gerik, then the Highway runs across the Main range to go over to the East Coast. But this day, for us, we would be only using a small portion of this Highway to reach Gerik before we turning off for the west coast instead of heading east.. 1 NKVE - East West Highway
2 Way to Gerik Watch carefully! For me, this is the first I saw, the new type milestone on pole. Oh! Another 73 kilometres to Grik. The junction to Sauk village would be coming up.
2 Way to Gerik
2 Way to Gerik
2 Way to Gerik At the interjection, this would be this signage. So showing that the Sauk settlement is between Kuala Kangsar and Grik town.
We were at the junction and saw this dedicated signboard for Sauk Town. A clarification here. The official name of the major town is Gerik. It is further up on this Highway is Gerik town. I am still following its ancient name "Grik" as spelled by the British. 2 Way to Gerik Picture below - This time another signage prompting that Chenderoh Dam is nearby. This is important point. The lakes for the dam is the region where the wild fresh water fishes are harvested. And that the products available to the restaurants brings fame several remote hamlets, who are offering these exclusive delicacies. The vast expense of water in this Chenderoh Dam has allowed the "Clown Featherback" or Spotted Knifefishes to grow up to enormous size of 3-4 kilograms. Restaurant owners came up with the idea of steamed fish belly. Knowing that the fish meat on the rest of the fish's body is filled with bones. The meat then made into fish balls. The largest town beside the Chenderoh dam is Lenggong. A couple of restaurants attracted travellers to make the long journey to savour these delicacies since time remember.
For me, I am also made curious by the latest craze in this freshwater fishes. There is now market for diners, the high priced Empurau Fishes. Made famous by catches in the Sarawak Rivers. On the net, video clips showed that the Empurau fish is now farmed in the upper reaches of Perak River. Though the fishes are not available on the market but sold on line. One more task - The second mission for this day, was to ascertained whether restaurants in remote Perak near the river, are offering Empurau on their menu. So this trip, armed with our long awaited wish list - to try the taste of exotic fishes. So many years passed and popularity of the fresh water fishes increased. A natural question asked was "Why travel so far to Lenggong?" A place nearer to Kuala kangsar or Ipoh would be ideal. That awakening was many years back. Hence, Sauk being the largest settlement next to the lake and much nearer to KK was chosen. Also, why we need checking out Sauk that we had never being to! Picture below - From the traffic light inter-junction we got a narrow glimpse of Sauk town. Not a town but more of a settlement but mind you, one with a historical past too.
First impression for me - a short row of shop houses with an empty restaurant. It was then 11.30am, too early for lunch crowd.
2 Way to Gerik On 2nd June 2000, Al-Ma'unah, a Muslim spiritual group raid the Malaysian Army reserve camp in Belum and stealing their weapons. They then ran off, eventually got cornered in the forest at Sauk. There was a stand-off at Bukit Jenalik, leading to the grand finale. The "Sauk Siege" took place on the 5th June, the rebels neutralised. From the picture above -Take the turn to the left. Then a hundred meters further on - This was an arch and a gate way to a New Village
2 Way to Gerik There was a mosque and straight away bill board advertising for restaurant
2 Way to Gerik The second restaurant, just a stone throw away, right at the turning. Chan Kee! Oh! that's the one our Captain "Rose Chan" patronised with the Swimming Group when they made their trip here to try out the food. But this day also no sign of activity.
2 Way to Gerik We found another and better looking first restaurant! A fairly large one too. Then went on our way around the small settlement to learn more. Then round another corner, this one Sun Kong came into sight, large and well ornamented. Judging from its looks, should be the leading restaurant for this area.
2 Way to Gerik Finally, we returned to the first shop. Oh! lucky for decision, business had started and there were other customers. The restaurant had an air-conditioned room and an annex, in an open air environment. Finally based on the number of patrons present at thta early time 11.30am, we decided this cold be where the regulars would go to. Lau kai
2 Way to Gerik The Boss lady herself was from Ipoh. As usual, since the place was not crowded and there was chances for me to exchanged a few words with Boss Lady to learn more about this place, Sauk and the Fresh fishes restaurant patronage. She did all the frontage chores like taking orders, serving and as well as being the cashier.
2 Way to Gerik I could see that there were at least 2 persons working in the kitchen.
2 Way to Gerik Patronage was low, the chef peeping out to watch what's we world be selecting.
2 Way to Gerik Nothing special - Fried rice. OH! not sure whether we were hungry or the Garlic Oiled Fried Rice tasted so good.
2 Way to Gerik
2 Way to Gerik
At last, this is the first special we came for. The belly portion of the "Featherback" fish. A fish with lots of bones and fine ones too. But at the belly, there were none at all, extra smooth. This time was prepared with sauce,
2 Way to Gerik First, extra fast to filled perhaps our empty stomach, she recommended fried rice with lards and salted fish. It was extremely fragrant and tasty.
2 Way to Gerik Gave us time to enjoy the meal while the steaming of the dishes with fishes would take some time. Finally, I took a picture of their menu, it showed that our Jerawat cost between Rgt 80-100 per kilo. We did not quiver over the cost of our bill.
2 Way to Gerik In total, there must be at least 5 restaurants in this tiny hamlet. The was one more sign to point to another that we did not seek out.
2 Way to Gerik
The next special dish was another steamed Fish, wild "Sultan Fish" [ Thomas Hoven's Carp]. Though the Jerawat popularity nose-dived after the farmed version of fishes were made readily available. This time, we got the real McCoy, A fish that was caught in the wild. But sadly, unlike those "Jerawat" caught in the Pahang River, I doubt that the fish we were offered fed on seeds dropping on the river. For me, it brought back memories of we enjoying the pleasure of eating the fish's scale. This time, we still get to taste the scales! The restaurant lady informed us that it was unhygienic to steam the scales together. So, they had separated the scales, had them deep fried separately and recombined to served on the same dish. Those chunky yellow pieces were the scales.
Oh! I waited close to 20 years to make this trip to check out Sauk. I must say that serving freshwater fishes caught in the wild is not an exclusive but a popular business in many places. The most notable to our KL folks should be Choy Kee in Sungkai. Then along that stretch of old highway, in Slim River, Behrang and Bidor too. There are 2 rivers in this locality flowing through, uninhabited wilderness. Was a very satisfying trip to Sauk and going down memory lane with the steamed fishes. In urban scenario, we had stayed away from this type of joints and would not have paid those prices. But in Sauk, we did. It was a first for us.
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With Will Would Wander |