Kek Loke Si Temple thru the years

 

Since I revived my old hobby of posting story on the internet in 2020, I wanted to do a story on Kek Loke Si.

Annually on my pilgrimage back to to Ayer Itam, my hometown, I made it a point to collect pictures from the various hot spots, like the Dam & Kek Loke Si etc. At the beginning starting in the late 1990's I was behaving like a tourist and would be making pictures with beautiful scenes at Kek Loke Si temple as backdrops

 With the change of the Millennium, a new concept by the temple to light up its complex was experimented on. I rode piggy back with doing light photography. Unfortunately most pictures made in those early years using "Point & Shoot" camera generated low resolutions pictures. Then as prints, compounded  by sub standards of material used in processing, pictures over long storage detonated badly. Not surprising bringing out the old negatives, all I get now are faint images of our glorious past moments. But never mind, these retrieved pictures in a way did serve in telling a story.

For the start of this page, I filled in some historical facts about the start of the temple. The history of Kek Loke Si is available on the official website of this temple. I have picked up those relevant facts  to help build up my own views as to how it happened.

 Kek Loke Si

Also known as the Temple of Supreme Bliss, Kek Lok Si is said to be the largest Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia, and arguably one of the most famous in Penang. The oldest temple in existence in Penang before the building of Kek Loke Si, the  Kwan Yin Teng temple in Pitt Street .It was then names as the "Kong Hock Keong", as it could be literary translated as the, "Temple of the Cantonese and Hokkien community".

Here - "Kong" taken from for Kong fu, meaning Cantonese, and "Hock " for Hokkien, and reflects the two main provinces in China from which the majority of the Chinese immigrants in Penang originate.

 The foundation stone of the Kwan Yin Teng temple was laid around the year 1728. That makes it, the oldest temple to be built in Penang, well before other the likes of Khoo Kongsi. The cost then was 4000 Spanish Dollars, already a princely sum. When finished would be the most magnificent Chinese Building in the whole region

The history of Kek Lok Si temple can be traced to the late nineteenth century.

  .

 It began with the arrival of a priest, Venerable Beow Lean to Penang in 1885. He came to Penang with the aim of obtaining donations for the renovation of a monastery in Ku-san, Foochow, China.

His contact was the Kuan Yin Teng Temple in Pitt Street, After settling down, the trustees of the Kuan Yin Teng Temple decided to appoint him as the new resident priest of the temple. The Venerable Beow Lean was struck by the deep devotion of the Penang Chinese to Buddhism and he accepted the post.

It was here and knowing more of the local geography and the spices farmers work in the Balik Pulau Hills, with his knowledge in geomancy, he spotted a near perfect spot for a new temple< retreat for monks and Taoists striving for immortality.

The contour and terrain of that place resembled that of a crane spreading its wings, He then named the place "Huock-san"  or Crane Hill.

Construction of the Kek Loke Si temple

 Construction of the temple began with the sponsored by five leading Chinese business people of Penang known as “Hakka tycoons”. Collection of funds for building the temple was also facilitated by dedicating the structures and artefacts in the name of the temple’s benefactors. Thtats is a very attributes, leaving behind your footprints. The earliest building completed was the Hall of Bodhisattvas in 1891;

next to be ready No, 2 - The Hall of Devas in 1895

Lastly 3rd Hall - The Hall of Devawira in 1896, 

Tower of Sacred Books in 1899.

In 1904, with that the first phase of temple complex was deemed completed, In 1905, Venerable Beow Lean was ceremoniously installed as the first Abbot and Chief Priest of the Kek Lok Si.

# Pix 1- Aerial view of the Kek Loke Si Temple complex

Here is one dated earliest picture I could find - Taken from the slope of the hill facing the Kek Loke Si Temple. Fairly authentic as the iconic Pagoda is not within the complex yet.

# Pix 2 - Completion of the Kek Loke Si temple complex

Here is one dated earlier picture of the complex in greater details that I could find - Not sure of dates taken. I gave it as 1904. The local Chinese Consul-General reported this achievement to Peking - the Manchu Government. This led to the subsequent request for Beow Lean to be present in Peking before the emperor.

Beow Lean must have impressed the Chinese Emperor as he returned with an imperial gift of 7,000 volumes of Buddhist sutras and scriptures, Also an insignia of office that recognized him as the Chief Priest of Penang and an Imperial Sanction for his beloved temple.

 

The well-known Empress Cixi, of the Ching Dynasty, also wrote and presented a handwritten scripts to the temple. Until today, all these heritage relics are still kept in the temple; the royal scripts were converted into plaques, and the writings were displayed at the Hall of Devawira and the archway of the Pagoda of A Million Buddhas.

Beow Lean - He was succeeded by Venerable Poon Teong who continued and enhanced the complex with some of the temple’s finest buildings, - The Pagoda of A Million Buddha.

The Pagoda structures was started in 1915 and the whole project was completed in 1930. The Pagoda is about 100 feet high and its innovative design is a combination of Chinese, Thai and Burmese architecture.

Pix. 3. Pagoda work in progress

Venerable Poon Teong succeeded Venerable Beow Lean in 1906. He started installing some of the temple’s finest buildings, such as The Pagoda of A Million Buddhas. It was built in stages over a period of 15 years, much rethinking and redesigns made during that time. Here is a picture of the pagoda in progress

This Pagoda, also known as the Kek Lok Si Pagoda, is the most famous landmark in Penang.  Finally completed as what we could see as at today

# Pix 4 - 1920 Up to Level 2 and Prayer Hall No.3

The walkway joining the indoor garden at Prayer Hall 2 and walking up to number 3. Another very precious pictures - this time showing that canopy or roof for the walk yet to be installed

# Pix 5 - View from the Temple 1923

The Ayer Itam Basin - a very good picture. Clearly , I could make out the Balik Pulau Road and the Ayer Itam reservoir. Rough take, our house in Ayer Itam would be seen as a patch of belukar.

 

# Pix 6 - Internal view - temple complex

 Lowest level Prayer Hall No, 1 and the slightly raised by a few steps - Prayer Hall No,2

# Pix 7 - 1923 Up to Level 2 and Prayer Hall No.3

The walkway joining Prayer Hall 2 and up to number 3. Then on the upper portion the spot where the old "Wooden Fish" and Bell are still located. walkway from Prayer hall No.3 to Prayer Hall No.4

On the lower edge, the cover [not seen in Pix no.4] for the walkway installed

# Pix 8 -  The Completion of the Pagoda

The Pagoda is about 100 feet high and its innovative design is a combination of Chinese, Thai and Burmese architecture.

This Pagoda, also known as the Kek Lok Si Pagoda, is the most famous landmark in Penang. The seven-storey structure, also known as Pagoda of Rama VI or Pagoda of Ten Thousand Buddhas. It has 10,000 alabaster and bronze statues of Buddha.

The pagoda is also called the Pagoda of Rama VI because King Rama VI from Thailand is said to have laid the foundation for it. In honour of his contributions, temple authorities have named the main tower as such.

Move into modern Times

# Pix 9 - Fast forward into modern times 1950

A change of scenes .

A Night Club in Ayer Itam? Here was the gathering place for important events and celebration time for the framers. A high end restaurant and night club. That was the period or era right up to the end of the World war II and prior to Malaya's Independance. But soon after 1957 - urban Georgetown began opening up and gradually with better options available in "Town". The importance of this joint diminishing quickly and drifting into oblivions. I am very lucky to hang on to this antique photos to look into the glorious past

# Pix 10 - So OUT- the old night club and IN - the new souvenir shop.

Commercialization came to Kek Loke Si temple's ground. Our old time business associate Cheah Chuan Tin opening its shop at the centre of the step walkway leading up to the temple. He offered souvenir and host of local produce.

The picture helping me to recall my finishing years in Ayer Itam village before I left my playground and this place for good

# Pix 11 - The Golden Pagoda

Moving into its fast pace era and to be an icon for Penang. This was the year1960 - a good watershed year when transition was seen emerging

1974 - Progress continued - the Start of installing a Kwan Yin  statue.

Back to story new history started in the Kek Loke Si temple in 1974. That was the time for materializing the new idea of installing a Kwan Yin Statue in the temple ground

Upon hong sight, it turned out to be a highly controversial topic, some details which my pictures would have shown. For example -  The statue was finally completed and erected Then the authority was not sure of how to handle this thorny topic of a non Muslim "statue" being so obvious. There was sitting down an Intense negotiation .

History - The outcome came. They decided that the statue could stay but it's height had to be trimmed. Difficult task it was, as the statue is so huge and reducing it's height would also meant distorting it's overall looks. Anyway, it was done I followed the events as it was really interesting. After all was done,  a more palatable face saving and official version of the saga came out. - new explanation like the durability of fiber glass large statue surfaced and some inaccurate decisions etc etc

Back to modern days - my personal disaster. The external hard disc fell and crushed. That's the end of my photo archives. Among the many topics were pictures I collected, especially were old pictures I made for the fallen Kwan Yin statue. Anyway in combing the internet  I picked up a couple of old  pictures, not exactly what I wanted to show but traces of what that old Kwan Yin looked like

At the point, 1974 - I could  start inserting and showing my own pictures

# Pix 12- Chinese New year 23rd January 1974

Pix. 1. Nice neat picture eh? - Don't the temple using colour lanterns for the night?  - Oh! At that time 1974, that idea was not thought of yet.

# Pix 13 - Chinese New year 1974

Also a clean view of the temple complex. Why clean view again? A block of low rise, eye sore low cost flats would be eventually erected right in front of the temple, blocking and interrupting its view from the left. Look for modern days picture to compare

Thiise flats did mar this perfect scene that picture shows forever. Better take another look at the unblocked temple complex now!.

# Pix 14- Chinese New year 1974

Good scene to ponder - the two important landmarks at Kek Loke Si hinterland.

This was the Ayer Itam Laksa!  Once upon a time was a must try for those "out pf town" visitors. In that era, that eventaully surfaced "new" stall at the wet Air Itam Market hasn't been publicized. .

Second point - the original Kong Min Primary School at the bottom of the granite walkway, Finally that school also lost its significance. Overshadowed by that new branch near my house and which I attended. It  was larger, modern and better organized

1974

# Pix 15 - Installation of the First Quan Yin Statue

1974, Venerable Bai Shen, 白圣长老, the 4th Abbot of Kek Lok Si,极乐寺,a Buddhist Monastery in Penang initiated an idea to build a great Guan Yin 观音 sculpture in the monastery. Twelve years later in 1986, this Guan Yin sculpture was unveiled.


 

Pix 16 - Chinese New year 11th February 1975

Enter the Khong family - I had little choice but to use these pictures. Sorry for its poor quality.

# Pix 17 - Chinese New year 11th February 1975

The stair way direct to the pagoda was then in use. Now it is permanently blocked. [This is the worse presented picture!]

# Pix 18 - Chinese New year 11th February 1975

At the inner court garden. With the mini pagoda, it was a star attraction for visitors for some time

1980

# Pix 19 - The Quan Yin Statue - WIP looks

The Magnificent statue which had  taken a few years by now, The full statue as it was designed - was almost visible in full

# Pix 20 - Front view - WIP  Quan Yin Statue

Here are the couple of images showing the Statue in its designed form, Of course this was still in the Work-in-Progress stage

# Pix 21 - New Quan Yin Statue

Then came the sore point of how abstentious this statue of a Chinese goddess was seen from afar. This was at the bend of the road before the Police Station and also the market pace

# Pix 22 - New Quan Yin Statue

Another view when seen at the spot nearer to the temple. The light coloured Statue was so ostentatious against the dark coloured hillslopes

# Pix 23- Chinese New Year  1983

Fast forward, my family enlarged and the daughters had grown

# Pix 24- Chinese New Year  1983

Looking back at the pictures, I could understand why the main pagoda was the main attraction. It still is. But of course diluted by the more imposing Kwan Yin Statue right above. - two levels up

 

# Pix 25- Chinese New Year  1985

I spoke too soon! By 1985, the ornamenting of the temple for the Chinese New Year season started

# Pix 26- Chinese New Year  1985

Those were the days we visited Kek Loke Si just to punch card and behaving like tourists

# Pix 27 - Chinese New Year  1985

Oh! from the picture could see the weather threatening but the kids enjoying themselves

# Pix 28 - Chinese New Year  1985

Actually the annual visit helped to show how fast the children were growing up

# Pix 29 - Chinese New Year  1985

Unfortunately, the sculpture was made of fiber glass and unsuitable for the climate of Penang. Within three years, the sculpture began to disintegrate.

Venerable Bai Shen, 白圣长老, the 4th Abbot of Kek Lok Si - 极乐寺. After twelve years of working on it - in 1986, this Guan Yin sculpture was unveiled. This is one close up view, may not do justice to comment on its overall shape

# Pix 30 - Chinese New Year  1985

The giant Kwan Yin Statue. A view from afar and also another impression how it looked like then. No statistic but this eventual statue is lower than the presently installed statue

 

Unfortunately, as I just said earlier, this was a highly controversial project. There were rumours and plenty of them. What we as villagers saw was the completed statue that was erected opened to the public and then later on had to have its overall height reduced, The result - a distorted and an "out of proportion" new statue. After a while, ugly cracks were seen. Then came an  official statement or explanation " the sculpture was made of fibre glass and unsuitable for the climate of Penang. Within three years, the sculpture began to disintegrate".

Part of this old statue is still placed in the compound, That remaining portion had withstood the test of time.

1990

Learning from this bad experience, the next abbot Venerable Da Neng, 达能长老, initiated a second attempt in 1990 to fulfill the aspiration of the previous Abbot. Three years later in 1993, the ground breaking ceremony for the new sculpture marked the official start of the construction project.

This time, the construction took 9 years and the new Guan Yin sculpture was made and installed by 2002. I have changed the spelling too.

 Venerable Da Neng passed away, adding a sense of loss and further complexity to the project.

Additionally, the 1997 Asian Financial Crisis had a significant impact on the construction of the sculpture.Despite the 1997 financial crises nad dificulties with finds, the project persevered under the guidance of the next abbot, Venerable Ri Heng.

 2002

After nine years of construction, the sculpture was officially unveiled on 5 December 2002. The Guan Yin statue, made of bronze, stands at an impressive height of 30.2 meters, making it the tallest standing bronze Guan Yin in the world.

Alongside the Guan Yin sculpture, there are also sculptures of two Dharma protectors named Heng and Ha. These Dharma protectors symbolize guardianship and protection within the Buddhist tradition, emphasizing the spiritual significance and sanctity of the Kek Lok Si temple.

The completion of the Guan Yin sculpture at Kek Lok Si not only represents a remarkable architectural feat but also stands as a testament to the dedication, resilience, and spiritual devotion of those involved in its creation. It serves as an iconic symbol of Buddhist faith and a place of reverence for visitors and devotees alike.

# Pix 31 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2004 Lightings

Here the new bronze statue of Kwan Yin was opened to the public. Quite a dramatic change from the first version.

The present Quan Yin statue is the second for Kek Lok Si Temple. The idea for a statue was initiated back in 1974. The first statue was completed in 1977 at the cost of RM1.8 million. However heavy rain and a fire which broke out in 1993 damaged it. Ha! ha! didn't realize that new version of explanation while copying and writing it.

Then came the issue of the exposed Quan Yin Statue!, there was the beginning of another round of protest. This time around, the overall height was done according to approval. A new problem cropped up -  the long shadow of the statue was casted over a mosque.

 This is one picture of the new statue without the canopy or Pavilion

After much discussion and brain storming, it was decide to trim down the attention drawing of the Statue. A thoughtful solution partially conceal it. The monastery continued to work on the sculpture by building an 83 meters tall pavilion to house the Guan Yin. The pavilion has 16 granite pillars supporting a roof structure that was inspired by the Temple of Heaven in Beijing, China

# Pix 32 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2004 Lightings

As seen from the picture above, the trend of night lights during the 15 days of the new year was already an on going trend or new tradition by 2004

# Pix 33 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2004 Lightings

Complex and Pagoda from afar

# Pix 34 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2004 Lightings

Of course this phenomenon of lightings was new to me then and so this page has lots of pictures about lights

# Pix 35- Kek Loke Si CNY 2004 Lightings

The whole complex was brightened up with countless number of lanterns and lighting to highlight the profile of roof edges and tiles

# Pix 36 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2004 Lightings

Without doubt, the new centre piece Quan Yin was lighted up too. Here another picture of the exposed Quan Yin Statue

# Pix 37 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2004

I could go on and on showing the lighted buildings from the many takes and angles

# Pix 38 - Kek Loke Si - CNY 2004 Lightings

# Pix 39 - Kek Loke Si - CNY 2004 Lightings

Yes, the stand alone Statute was certainly very majestic especially when lighted up during the CNY period. But depends so far as to who was looking at the scene

# Pix 40 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2004 Lightings

# Pix 41 - Kek Loke Si -  CNY 2004 Lightings

After 2004, there were 4 years that I missed going back to Penang  or giving Kek Loke Si a miss!

2005 - We were in the midst of a Cruise craze, we were in Penang but on board the Gemini

2006 - I was also doing Birding plus an Ex-colleague Peter Fessele came from Germany to visit us

2007 - I couldn't find any reason

2008 - I was so absorbed with birding that I gave CNY a skip to chase my hobby

# Pix 42 - Chinese New Year  2009

The full complex seen by day On 6th December 2009,

On 6 December 2009, 13,000 guests including 3,000 Buddhist Venerables representing Mahayana, Theravada and Vajrayana traditions were invited from Malaysia, China, Taiwan, Cambodia, Thailand and Bhutan for the consecration ceremony.

This time the statue blended nicely into the background

# Pix 43 - Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

Quan Yin without the canopy or Pavilion as we called it now

# Pix 44 - Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

# Pix 45- Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

This time, the night lights were so impressive that I have made pictures of parts and portions. Corridors leading from Level 2 to level 3

# Pix 46 - Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

The full effects of the lightings exercise

# Pix 47 - Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

More pictures

# Pix 48 - Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

Some details

# Pix 49 - Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

The mini Pagoda - an photographic icon of yesteryears

# Pix 50- Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

On 6 December 2009, 13,000 guests including 3,000 Buddhist Venerables fronm overseas were invited to witness this grandeur

# Pix 51 - Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

# Pix 52 - Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

# Pix 53 - Chinese New Year  Night lightings 2009

The Quan Yin Goddess of Mercy Pavilion a gargantuan pavilion at  Lok Si Temple, Penang. Ha ha seen it at last

 It shelters the gigantic statue of the Quan Yin, or Goddess of Mercy of Mahayana Buddhism. The consecration of the pavilion was conducted on Sunday, 6 December, 2009. The date was chosen as it coincides with the 118th anniversary of the founding of Kek Lok Si Temple.

I am getting a mismatch on dates here. I remembered that it took them years to complete the "canopy". Yet the dates together with the digital pictures says that it was only one year apart

# Pix 48 -  Chinese New Year  2010

The top of the Pavilion as seen from the compound of our house

The Goddess of Mercy Pavilion is 82.7 meters tall, from its base to the tip, equivalent to the height of a 20-storey building. The roof is a three-tier pagoda supported by 16 granite pillars embellished with ornate carvings. Each of the pillars comprises 40 cylindrical blocks which are made of granite with a thickness of 45 centimeters. Each cylinder block has a circumference of 2.1 meters. The pavilion was built at a cost of RM40 million.

 

# Pix 49 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2010

With this so-called opening ceremony year I spent lots of effort focusing on the Pavilion

# Pix 50 - Kek Loke Si - CNY 2010 Lighting year

# Pix 51 - Kek Loke Si  CNY 2010 Lighting year

Another full size picture of that topic -Quan Yin

# Pix 52 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2010 Lighting year

Close -up of the roofi

# Pix 53 -  Kek Loke Si CNY 2010 Lighting year

# Pix 54 - Kek Loke Si CNY  2011 Lighting year

Well so quick another year - 2011 Another new Year for me to do the same lightings once again

# Pix 55- Kek Loke Si  CNY 2011 Lighting year

# Pix 56 - Kek Loke Si  CNY 2012 Lighting year

And another Year 2012

# Pix 57 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2012 Lighting year

So very fast came 2012 and another round of ligtings pictures

# Pix 58 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2012 Lighting year

# Pix 59 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2012 Lighting year

# Pix 60 - Chinese New Year  of 2012 -Kek Loke Si Lights

This pictures here in 2012

# Pix 61 -  Chinese New Year  of 2014 -Kek Loke Si Lights

So we were there again in 2014. Wondering why we were not in Ayer Itam in 2013. Did my investigation. We had just returned from Baling after joining a Movie outdoor shoot. Just in time for celebration in KL.

# Pix 62 - Chinese New Year  of 2015 - Kek Loke Si Lights

And again in 2015 Quite closely year 2014, just like yesterday. . Almost every year, we don't want to miss this gala

# Pix 63 - Chinese New Year  of 2015 - Kek Loke Si Lights

Each year the lightings would get better and better

# Pix 64 - Chinese New Year  of 2015 - Kek Loke Si Lights

# Pix 65 - Chinese New Year  of 2015 -Kek Loke Si Lights

# Pix 66 - Chinese New Year  of 2015 -Kek Loke Si Lights

# Pix 67 -  Chinese New Year  2016

This year I found that I had only one frame from a day time visit. No pictures for 2016 Night Lightings

# Pix 68 -  Chinese New Year  2020

For a gap of 4 years we missed seeing the Lights. This year, we decided to check out the place while the crowds were not in yet

# Pix 69 - Chinese New Year  2020

The entrance to the complex. . Now notice that block of white coloured Flats.

# Pix 70 - Chinese New Year  2020

Then turned right to enter the road to the Dam

# Pix 71 - Chinese New Year  2020

A view of the riginal Landmarl the Pagoda vis-a-vis the new Quan Yin Pavilion This picture was taken from the empty land opposite Chooi Lim Ku was then emptied and level for the parking of tour buses

# Pix 72 - Chinese New Year  2020

We surveyed tha area wondering which way the visitors would be walking after disembarking from the buses

# Pix 73 - Chinese New Year  2020

We then visited the upper car park. From this spot we would access the indoor court yard direct by-passing the lower Prayer Hall 1 & 2

# Pix 74 - Chinese New Year  2020

Down memory lane! There we were inside the old courtyard which was once the favorite photo taking area of yesteryears

# Pix 75 - Chinese New Year  2020

The LED lights and lines of lights clearly visible in bright daylight

# Pix 76 - Chinese New Year  2020

The walkway up to level three, though not lighted was very ornamented in daylight sight

# Pix 77- Chinese New Year  2020

There my model ready to go through the old rituals. Down memory lane

# Pix 78 - Kek Loke Si CNY 2004Chinese New Year  2020

That iconic mini Pagoda again Yes! like the way we used to do some 40 years ago. A little coner away from the present days glamour

# Pix 79 - Chinese New Year  2020

One complete cycle. The children have their own family and now we have time for ourselves and tinge of the early years. At last at home - the purpose of that photographic session to make a combo comparison of the yesteryears and now

Down Memory Lane set No.  1

# Pix 80 - Chinese New Year  2020

Down Memory Lane set No.  2

# Pix 81 - Chinese New Year  2020

Down Memory Lane set No. 3

 There are many ways to go down memory lane and amuse ourselves. We are blessed to have those days and also the privilege to enjoy the present day. We are conscious enough to gather our moss and use them appropriately. Not that many family have such interest and opportunity

So in the year 2020, we did a daylight tour of them temple. Minus the grandeur of the night lightings. As if we knew in advance that after the Covid endemic and release from restriction, there would be an even greater shows of lights. I was right in making that guess. watch that page of the lightings of Kek Loke Si 2023

 

       With  Will  Will  Wander